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Erg Chegaga at sunset
The great dunes

Erg Chegaga

Forty kilometres of dunes, up to three hundred metres high. No phone signal, no engine noise.

Erg Chegaga is Morocco's largest dune field and considerably harder to reach than the better-known Erg Chebbi near Merzouga. That is exactly why it is emptier. The last road ends at M'hamid El Ghizlane; from there it is around ninety minutes off-road.

The camps sit between the dunes, with fixed tents, beds, shower and toilet. Fire and music in the evening, silence in the morning. If you like, ride a dromedary at sunset or take a sandboard down the slopes.

Two places on the way back are rarely visited: Lac Iriki, a vast salt lake dry for years, and a fossil hill where you can pick up small fossils to keep.

The dunes just after sunset.
The dunes just after sunset.
The caravan in the morning, before the heat.
The caravan in the morning, before the heat.
Fixed tents with bed, shower and toilet.
Fixed tents with bed, shower and toilet.
With no stray light the Milky Way is visible.
With no stray light the Milky Way is visible.
Afternoon light on the dune crest.
Afternoon light on the dune crest.