
Where the road ends
The Draa valley
Thousands of date palms, mud-brick villages and green-glazed pottery. At the end: M'hamid.
The Draa is Morocco's longest river — usually dry, but a real stream after the rare heavy rains. A band of date palms follows its bed, looking from the air like a green crack in the stone desert.
In Agdz the village is reflected in the water in the evening. Further south lies Tamegroute, known for centuries for its green-glazed pottery — the workshops can be visited, and a piece of that glaze fits in any backpack.
The desert begins beyond Zagora. Stone desert first, then M'hamid El Ghizlane: the gate to the great Sahara, the last village, the last petrol station. After that there is no more road.





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