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Agdz in the Draa valley, reflected in the river
Where the road ends

The Draa valley

Thousands of date palms, mud-brick villages and green-glazed pottery. At the end: M'hamid.

The Draa is Morocco's longest river — usually dry, but a real stream after the rare heavy rains. A band of date palms follows its bed, looking from the air like a green crack in the stone desert.

In Agdz the village is reflected in the water in the evening. Further south lies Tamegroute, known for centuries for its green-glazed pottery — the workshops can be visited, and a piece of that glaze fits in any backpack.

The desert begins beyond Zagora. Stone desert first, then M'hamid El Ghizlane: the gate to the great Sahara, the last village, the last petrol station. After that there is no more road.

Thousands of date palms along the river.
Thousands of date palms along the river.
Narrow paths between the gardens.
Narrow paths between the gardens.
It is noticeably cooler in the oases.
It is noticeably cooler in the oases.
Agdz, where the valley begins.
Agdz, where the valley begins.
Mint tea belongs to every stop.
Mint tea belongs to every stop.