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An alley in the medina of Marrakech
The beginning

Marrakech

The starting point of most routes — and a place worth two days of your time.

Most journeys begin here because this is where the airport is. But Marrakech is worth it even without moving on: the Koutoubia mosque, Jemaa el-Fnaa square, the Bahia palace and the Jardin Majorelle are all within walking distance.

For the Jardin Majorelle we recommend booking tickets in advance — the queue can cost you an hour. For the souks we recommend nothing at all: getting lost without a plan is the point.

You stay in riads: unremarkable houses from the outside, hiding a courtyard with a fountain, often a pool and sometimes a hammam behind the door. That is not a hotel, that is a house.

A light-filled alley in the medina.
A light-filled alley in the medina.
Haggling is a friendly game.
Haggling is a friendly game.
Riad courtyard: fountain, shade, stillness.
Riad courtyard: fountain, shade, stillness.
A midday break, the way the city takes one.
A midday break, the way the city takes one.
In the alleys you are quickly approached.
In the alleys you are quickly approached.